A walk from Huisinis

A walk on the coast of the Isle of Harris from Huisinis, June 2007

 

Huisinis lies at the end of a 16-17km single track road; a remote outpost on the west coast of Harris in the Western Isles. Although in current times it seems isolated, its spectacular beach and scenery attract many people for camping and walking. Nonetheless, on the sunny, summer's day when Julie and I set out on our walk, we saw only a handful of people.

The landscape of Huisinis and its surroundings, including the views of the tiny island of Scarp across the Sound of Scarp, is wild and beautiful; rivalling anywhere in the world. Despite the desolation, it was striking to me how many signs of human habitation over many centuries were so evident.

These photographs illustrate the indelible impact of people living in this wondrous landscape.

 
 

Scarp

The tiny Isle of Scarp was long inhabited, and like St Kilda the men of the island met each morning in a "parliament" to plan the day's work. In 1881, there were 213 people on the island but this fell through the 1900s, and in 1967 the school closed, the post office followed in 1969 and the last two permanent resident familes left in 1971.

A pattern repeated all over the Highlands and Islands. In prehistoric times, when the early settlements began, islands and remote places offered protection and resources. They were the centre of the world for the communities that thrived there and the island folk tasted the "sweetness of true liberty" (Martin Martin) Centuries later, as large estates began to take over and clear the lands, crofting became less sustainable and for the few families remaining to manage the estates, theirs was a more lonely existence. Now the mainland drew people away, and the dominant situation in the islands is one of isolation.


 
 



Car engine



 
 
As seen all over the British Isles, stone walls are an integral feature of the landscape. But what boundary are they marking? Perhaps the Estate of Amhinnsuidhe Castle, where you literally drive through the garden and past the front door next to the road into Huisinis.
 
 

Stone Wall

Stone Wall

 
 

Fence post

Croft

 
 

Beach below Glen Cravadale

Beach Flotsam

After following the coast around the base of Huiseabhal Beag, we skirted Loch na Cleabhaig and passed a tiny white cottage. The old "lazy beds" were clearly visible, like long healed over scars on the hillside above the cottage. These were used on the croft for cultivating crops in the peat.

As we descended back to sea level, we arrived at the magical beach below Glen Cravadale. Pure white sands and turquoise sea from a distant view. On arrival, the sea borne debris was all too evident amongst the cobbles at the top of the beach. It took a matter of seconds to gather this collection of white plastic. If this quantity of material is so easily found in this tiny and remote location, just how many thousands of tonnes of material are there out in the oceans yet to come ashore?

 
 

Beach at Loch Crabhadail

The White Sands of Harris

 
 
 
Loch a' Ghlinne
 

 
 


Moss

 

 
 
 

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